Skin-identical Skincare

In last 10 years of research in skincare, one of the most paradigm shift have been of  "skin-identical" ingredients, that have truly revolutionized the self-care.

Skin-identical skincare is based on products that are inspired by the skin's own biochemistry, which acts as the components already existing in our skin or formulations that incorporate components that are naturally present in the skin, allowing for enhanced compatibility and improved efficacy and synergy.

These biomimic ingredients help repair the skin barrier, optimize hydration, and make the skin naturally resilient against exposomes. By mimicking the skin's natural biology, these formulations build long-term skin wellness rather than temporary solutions.

Why Skin-Native Ingredients Matter

The skin is a complex organ composed of lipids, proteins, and water-binding molecules that work in harmony to maintain homeostasis. But, factors like aging, UV exposure, pollutants, environmental extremes, exposomes, and bad skincare habits can deplete these essential elements, leading to dehydration, sensitization, and compromised barrier function. By replenishing the skin with ingredients it recognizes, we enhance its ability to function optimally. Skin-identical ingredients integrate seamlessly into the skin’s structure, making them more effective in restoring long-term skin health.

Curious Case of Skin-Identical Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF)

Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) are essential water-loving small molecules, found in our skin that help maintain skin hydration, elasticity, and barrier function.

We studied these NMFs in detail and explored their ratios in different situations and conditions of the skin. As a result of these findings, we created an NMF in a bottle with fermentation-based actives and natural ingredients that closely resemble the Natural NMF, and observed that the skin thrives to its natural best in its own micro-climate.

Some key skin-identical NMFs include:

• Hyaluronic Acid: A powerful humectant that attracts and retains water molecules, preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Eluxier products use a very low molecular weight Hyaluronic acid made by bacteria through fermentation.
• Amino Acids (e.g., serine, proline, glycine): Essential for maintaining skin structure and hydration by supporting the synthesis of proteins like collagen and elastin. Our Amino acid complex is a concoction of 11 amino acids in the ratio, they are found in human skin.
• Lactic Acid and Urea: Components that regulate pH balance and moisture levels, improving skin texture and hydration. We use fermentation based Lactates and Urea that provides intense hydration.
• Ceramides: Lipids that form a crucial part of the skin barrier, reinforcing protection against moisture loss and external irritants. Research suggests that a mixture of only long chain ceramides help in creating the moisturization in skin. Our Ceramide complex is a mixture of 5 types of ceramides that have long chain fatty acid chains.
• Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA): A key component that helps maintain the skin’s hydration and elasticity by binding water molecules in the stratum corneum. This one is present in sweat and sebum and also act as the food for native microbiome.
• Sodium Lactate: Works synergistically with other NMFs to provide enhanced moisture retention, preventing dryness and flakiness.
• Glycerol (Glycerin): Supports the movement of water across the skin, keeping it hydrated and plump. Eluxier products use Glyceryl Glucoside instead of glycerol which is 100X more efficient in maintaining the moisture and electrolyte balance across skin

The Role of Aquaporins in Skin Hydration

Aquaporins (AQPs) are membrane-bound proteins that facilitate water transport within skin cells. Among them, Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is the most prevalent in the epidermis and is critical for maintaining skin hydration, elasticity, and resilience. Increased expression of AQP3 enhances water retention, improves elasticity, and accelerates wound healing. Studies suggest that glycerol, a component of the NMF, is a key substrate for AQP3, further enhancing skin hydration and cellular function.

Aquaporins not only regulate hydration but also play a crucial role in barrier function. AQP3 deficiency has been linked to conditions such as dry skin, increased sensitivity, and impaired wound healing. Research suggests that enhancing aquaporin expression can significantly improve hydration, making these proteins a promising target in dermatological treatments for dry and damaged skin. Eluxier products use peptides and other ingredients that naturally initiate the signal to increase the expression of AQP-3 in the epidermis.

ingredients that usually increase AQP-3 expression are:

• Signaling Peptides: Some specific peptides upregulate the AQP expression in the epidermis. Eluxier products use a tripeptide and reduced Glutathione
• Glyceryl Glucoside: A potent humectant directly utilized by AQP3, supporting water transport and barrier function.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Enhances AQP3 expression, strengthens the skin barrier, and reduces inflammation.
• Polyphenols (e.g., green tea catechins, resveratrol): Protect against oxidative stress, upregulate AQP3, and enhance hydration.
• Aloe Vera: Contains bioactive compounds that improve hydration via AQP pathways and soothe inflammation.
• Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): Soothes and hydrates the skin while supporting AQP3 activation and tissue repair

This Revolution Won't Stop Here

What brought us here, will take us far and beyond. While the ingredient research continues to uncover the vast potential of skin-identical skincare,  the future lies in optimizing cellular regeneration and gene expression modulation to increase aquaporin activity, allowing the skin to retain moisture more effectively without excessive reliance on external hydration products.

Future research is also investigating probiotic and postbiotic skincare solutions to naturally enhance the skin’s microbiome and improve hydration levels. By integrating skin-identical ingredients, these advanced formulas work at a cellular level to improve hydration, repair damage, and strengthen the skin barrier.