Actives of Eluxier
Actives are the functional backbones of the products. anything that is not functional in a product, is a mere filler, a bulking agent.
At Eluxier, we have an active-first approach. Keep the actives at the core of the formula and add synergic ingredients that impart functional benefits like emollience, moisturization, hydration, anti-oxidation, UV protection, anti-inflammation, or protection against microbes or pollutants.
Actives of Hydration:
Occlusives: These ingredients form an impermeable layer on the skin and reduce moisture evaporation, so the moisture within the skin, remains trapped over a prolonged period ensuring a moist, supple skin. Oils and waxes are examples of occlusives and have been discussed in detail in the section- Oils of Eluxier. However, these layers may suffocate the skin and may interfere with the absorption of other actives into the skin. Ingredients like petrolatum, and paraffin wax are also occlusives that we categorize as DIRTY30 and dont use in our products.
Humectants: These ingredients are generally long chain water-loving molecules with several branches that can hold multiple molecules of water in different arms. They have a tremendous capacity to hold water, compared to their own size, like holding a little "cloud" of water around the skin and preventing it from drying up. However, in arid situations, when the environment itself draws too much moisture from them, they may deplete water from the skin to satisfy their water-holding capacity and in turn, dry the skin.
Eluxier products use Very Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid (VLMWHA) and a mixture of small molecular weight, naturally occurring, water soluble substances collectively called as NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor). NMF mainly consists of free amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactates, citrate, sugars, amino acids and urea. We have developed a unique formula of NMF for sustained extended hydration for 90+ hours that keeps hydrating skin even after skin washing with mild soaps. This NMF is quantitatively similar to the ingredient profile of the NMF naturally found in healthy skin.
Emollients: These are generally oil-loving ingredients that instead of making an impermeable lipid layer on the skin, fill the gaps between the cells of the stratum corneum, called as keratinocytes to make it more smooth and supple.
Eluxier products contain several low molecular weight, hydrophilic, chemically simple molecules for hydration including Glyceryl Glucoside, Fermentation based lactic acid and their salts, Fermentation postbiotics, mild alpha hydroxy acids (MAHAs), Esters of fatty acids used as emulsifiers also act as emollients.
Moisturizing actives: These are the active ingredients that promote the gene expressions of proteins that regulate moisture in the epidermis (like aquaporins). These include peptides, amino acids, etc.
Peptides: Peptides are a low-molecular-weight group of amino acids linked by peptide bonds. These are usually small fragments of larger protein molecules, and they act as signaling and regulatory molecules that affect feedback mechanisms, defense, immunity, growth, homeostasis, and reproduction.
Eluxier products use two unique peptides. A tripeptide and Glutathione.
Amino Acids: Eluxier products use a proprietary blend of skin-identical blend of amino acids (the similar proportions in which they exist across different layers of skin). The blend contains a mixture of 11 amino acids, Arginine, Aspartic acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Histidine, and Phenylalanine.
Ceramides: Lipids form the largest part of the epidermis's chemical composition and form the most crucial pathways for the diffusion and transportation of substances in our body, especially across the skin. This lipidic matrix is composed of almost equal parts of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids.
Eluxier uses a synthetically manufactured ceramide complex which is a mixture of 5 types of ceramides along with plant-based cholesterol, that makes it biodynamic.
Ethyl Ascorbate: Ascorbic acid is one of the most important antioxidants for skin protection and rejuvenation. It acts as a cofactor for an enzyme that cross-link and stabilize collagen fibers. It also directly activates the transcription factors involved in collagen synthesis. Ascorbic acid also acts as a natural replenisher of Vitamin E in the skin, providing a synergistic antioxidant activity.
Our current products use Ethyl Ascorbate. Ethyl ascorbate is a low molecular weight version that readily penetrates through the skin and shows significant resilience against oxidation on storage.
D-Panthenol: Dex-Panthenol is a pro-vitamin that converts into pantothenic acid or vitamin B5 inside the body which acts as a component of Coenzyme A that helps in synthesis of fatty acids and ceramides. Panthenol has a significant effect on deep moisturization of stratum corneum and wound healing through two separate mechanisms. Panthenol increases gene expression, and several clinical studies have shown an increase in fibroblast proliferation and rapid epithelialization of wounds.
Niacinamide: A superhero ingredient, Vitamin B3 is used in the energy cycle of the cells, and defense systems.
Niacinamide helps in treating almost every skin disorder, such as aging, hyperpigmentation, acne, psoriasis, pruritus, dermatitis, fungal infections, epidermal melasma, non-melanoma skin cancer, etc. It has been reported to possess numerous properties, for instance, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antipruritic, and anticancer, Niacinamide leads to an increase in protein synthesis (e.g. keratin), has a stimulating effect on ceramide synthesis, speeds up the differentiation of keratinocytes, and raises cellular energy. In ageing skin, topical application of niacinamide improves the surface structure, smoothens out wrinkles and inhibits photo carcinogenesis. It is possible to demonstrate anti-inflammatory effects in acne, rosacea and nitrogen mustard-induced irritation
All Eluxier products contain Niacinamide in the range of 5-10%.