Human skin thrives in a complicated micro-climate that involves a dead skin layer that has magical living characteristics and several layers underneath, where the whole physiology and biochemistry  changes starkly every 10-20 cell layers, and in the end, everything dances to a simple ballet of equilibrium and everything moves towards sustainable growth.

 

The key, that holds all these equilibria in place, is optimum moisturization.

 

Moisturizing agents are, therefore, one of the most important ingredients for skin health. The healthy level of water content in the epidermis is 10-30%. Optimum moisturization is achieved by four types of ingredients:

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1. Occlusives: These ingredients form an impermeable layer on the skin and reduce moisture evaporation, so the moisture within the skin, remains trapped over a prolonged period ensuring a moist, supple skin. Oils and waxes are examples of occlusives and have been discussed in detail in the section- Oils of Eluxier. However, these layers may suffocate the skin and may interfere with the absorption of other actives into the skin. Ingredients like petrolatum, lanolin, and paraffin wax are also included in this category.

2. Humectants: These ingredients are generally long chain water-loving molecules with several branches that can hold multiple molecules of water in different arms. They have a tremendous capacity to hold water, compared to their own size. They help in hydrating by holding a little "cloud" of water around the skin and preventing it from drying up. However, in arid situations, when the environment itself draws too much moisture from them, they may deplete water from the skin to satisfy their water-holding capacity and in turn, dry the skin. Molecules like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea, etc. are included in this category.

3. Emollients: These are generally oil-loving ingredients that instead of making an impermeable lipid layer on the skin, fill the gaps between the cells of the stratum corneum, called as keratinocytes to make it more smooth and supple. Most natural oils, butter, and squalene belong to this category. Some ester forms of glycerin and emulsifiers also act as emollients by holding up lipids close to the epidermis.

4. Moisturizing actives: These are the active ingredients that promote the gene expressions of proteins that regulate moisture in the epidermis (like aquaporins). These include peptides, amino acids, etc.

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A better approach is to use a balanced mix of different types of moisturizers together, to create the best micro-climate for skin to grow, differentiate, and heal.

At Eluxier, we have chosen the most efficient, synergic, and low molecular weight moisturizers that increase the formation of aquaporins in the skin along with providing moisturization for 90+ hours.

Under normal environmental conditions, the Stratum Corneum contains around 15-20% water, beyond this, the skin permeability alters. It is noted that when the water content in the epidermis drops below normal levels, the skin proliferation intensifies leading to flaky and uneven skin texture. 

Some of the hydrators we use in our products are the following:

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Emollients:

Eluxier products contain several low molecular weight, hydrophilic, chemically simple molecules for hydration including Glyceryl Glucoside, Fermentation based lactic acid and their salts, Fermentation postbiotics, mild alpha hydroxy acids (MAHAs), Esters of coconut oil, 

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Low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (HA): 

A naturally occurring chemically simple linear polymer with repeating units of glucuronic acid and acetyl glucosamine, linked through a weak glycosidic bond. Despite this simple chemistry, hyaluronic acid plays some of the key functions in skin hydration, wound healing, tissue regeneration, and aging. The human body contains 7-8 grams of HA, and around half resides in the skin.

In its pure form,  HA is the same in all species and therefore it does not incite any immune response or allergy. HA acts as a humectant for the epidermis and helps in providing a conducive environment for cell regeneration. It also actively helps in cell signaling, impacting the stability of the Extra Cellular Matrix (ECM).

 

Skin-identical Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF):

NMF is a combination of low molecular weight water-soluble substances that are exclusively present in the stratum corneum. NMF mainly consists of free amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactates, citrate, sugars, and urea, forming a gradient profile of humectants and electrolytes that peak in the upper one-third of the stratum corneum. A deficiency in NMF can lead to various skin conditions including,  xerosis cutis and dermatitis.

We have developed a unique formula of NMF for sustained extended hydration for 90+ hours that keeps hydrating skin even after skin washing with mild soaps. This NMF is quantitatively similar to the ingredient profile of the NMF naturally found in healthy skin.